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OFF-ROAD TECH
- CLICKER
SETTINGS
Most settings are designed to work within a
window of clicker positions. If you find you have to change the position
dramatically to improve performance, and are still not happy with the
results, it is generally a cry for help from your valving. Stock valving has
to cater to a wide range of riders and ability levels, and can't be expected
to be right for everyone. A revalve should be able to get you in a range
where we can fine tune for conditions with the clickers.
Compression:
The compression clicker is
a low speed adjustment that affects how quickly or freely the suspension
compresses. By low speed, we mean low shaft speed, or slower movements of
the suspension. Faster movements will quickly overcome the clicker, and be
controlled mainly by the reaction of the valving shim stack. This is what we
tune when we revalve. The stack also has influence on low speed movements,
but the clicker is fairly exclusively low speed. With this in mind it is
important to remember that it is really easy to make an off road bike overly
harsh with the clickers in to tight, and a road race bike lose grip with the
compression clickers in too tight. So proceed carefully, and realize that if
you need to deviate from the standard clicker setting by a great deal, the
shock or fork spec is probably not as good as it could be for you.
If we have done your suspension you should have received it back with a
rubber o-ring on the fork leg. This is meant to show you the maximum stroke
used. Keep an eye on it when trying to perfect your fork settings.
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Fork: As mentioned, too much clicker makes the forks harsh on small
bumps. Turn the clicker out till they are as plush as they can be.
Occasional light bottoming is ideal as this means you are using all the
intended stoke, giving maximum plush ness.
Shock: The same principles apply for compression clicker settings on the
shock. Occasional light bottoming yields maximum plush ness. Bottoming can
be controlled by turning in the clicker, but be careful of making it harsh
on the small bumps. Softer is better, for grip and comfort except in soft
rolling whoops or G-outs and sand (where the opposite is true).
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Rebound: The same is true for the
rebound clicker, and in fact it is just as easy to make a real mess of the
suspension function by running the clicker in too tight. The rebound
controls how quickly the suspension returns from being compressed. Slowing
the rebound with the clicker will hold the suspension down; this can allow
it to "pack down" over a series of bumps. Conversely too little rebound will give the bike a wallowy feeling and diminish a rider's confidence at speed.
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Fork: Aside from packing harshness over a
series of bumps, excessive rebound can hold the front down on corner entry
leading to a tuck. Insufficient rebound will prevent enough weight on the
front for good grip, with the front popping up and pushing wide, or climbing
out of a berm.
Shock: As we have said, packing down is the number one trouble with
excessive rebound. If the back won't track straight through a series of
whoops, or if it kicks excessively over logs, the rebound may be too slow.
Too slow of a rebound setting can also hold the back down over acceleration
chop and makes the bike feel rough.
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Off-Road Tech |
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